Welcome to the CLEAR family!
These notes are designed to reinforce what you learnt during your first Foundation Package session, help you practise before your second session (usually three to five weeks later), and provide a handy reference for your ongoing training.
Use them alongside your audio recap, which contains advice tailored to you and your dog. Focus on the exercises covered in your session rather than feeling you need to practise everything in these notes.
Little grabs of training time make a big difference
You don’t need to find half an hour every day to train your dog. In fact, short, frequent sessions are often far more productive.
Five minutes here, three minutes there, another few minutes while the kettle boils or during a television ad break — it all adds up. Grab 20 minutes across five little sessions and you’ve done a worthwhile day’s training without having to rearrange your life.
A handy treat stash will supercharge your training! Keep a resealable bag or container of small, tasty treats somewhere prominent, such as a kitchen bench or shelf, safely out of your dog’s reach. Having rewards readily available means you can seize those little training opportunities whenever they arise.
If you’re juggling work, family and a hundred other commitments, have a read of Yes, you do have time to train! for some practical ideas on fitting training into a busy day.
Your second session isn’t an exam!
There’s no test to pass and no need to worry if everything hasn’t gone perfectly. The second session is relaxed, and we’ll work from wherever you and your dog are up to.
But the more you practise between sessions, the more you’ll get out of that second visit. You’ll have had time to build on what you’ve learnt, discover where you need help and develop questions we can work through together.
You’ll also find plenty of additional help at CLEARdogtraining.com, with an extensive and growing library of practical dog-training articles. Many were inspired by questions and experiences from our in-home sessions. Throughout these notes, we’ve included links to relevant articles if you’d like to explore a particular topic in more detail.
1. Training the CLEAR way
CLEAR’s approach is based on positive reinforcement, sensible management and teaching dogs what we want them to do, rather than constantly correcting what we don’t want.
Training should be enjoyable for both ends of the lead. Short, frequent sessions are generally more productive than long sessions in which everyone becomes tired or frustrated.
Remember our favourite saying: Be proactive, not reactive.
Look for reasons to say “Yes!” instead of “No!”
From the moment your new puppy or dog arrives, look for opportunities to reward the behaviour you want. If they’re sitting politely, lying quietly, coming when called or making another good choice, let them know they’ve got it right.
There will be plenty of things to teach your puppy without spending the whole day nagging them. The trick is to make good behaviour rewarding while preventing unwanted behaviour from becoming an established habit.
This is where management comes in. Put your shoes away rather than repeatedly telling your puppy not to chew them. Keep bedroom doors closed if you don’t want your puppy exploring them. Fence off dangerous garden plants, use baby gates to restrict access to certain rooms and put tempting objects out of reach.
These aren’t substitutes for training. They’re ways of preventing problems while your puppy is learning.
A little thought about your environment can save an enormous amount of frustration. Instead of spending your day saying “No!”, you’ll have far more opportunities to say “Yes!”
Stop showing your dog the money up front!
When teaching a new behaviour, we often start by using a treat as a lure — showing the dog what we want by guiding them with food.
For example, when teaching loose-lead walking, we initially hold a treat just in front of the dog’s nose, say “Let’s go” and take a couple of steps together.
Once the dog understands what’s expected, we gradually move the treat hand up and away from their nose. Instead of showing them the money up front, we ask for the behaviour first and reward afterwards.
The aim is to move from a dog who follows food to one who understands and responds to our cues, knowing that good things follow.
One little word that makes training clearer: “Yes!”
Think of “Yes!” as shorthand for “Yes, that’s exactly what I’m looking for!”
A marker word identifies the precise moment your dog performs the behaviour you want and tells them a reward is coming. This helps your dog understand exactly what earned the treat, making them more likely to repeat that behaviour.
It’s used throughout training, not just for loose-lead walking.
And there’s a bonus for the human end of the lead. Before saying “Yes!”, you need to know exactly what you’re looking for. This makes you think about your training criteria instead of simply offering vague praise.
A marker word doesn’t replace praise. Keep telling your dog what a good boy or girl they are! It’s simply a more precise communication tool.
Using a marker word isn’t compulsory, but it can make teaching new behaviours considerably clearer and more efficient for both dog and owner.
Keep training sessions short, reward small successes and make an exercise easier if your dog is struggling. Try to finish while you’re both still enjoying yourselves.
Further reading
2. Engagement, recall and impulse control games
These games teach your dog that interacting with you is fun and rewarding. They also teach good manners and self-control.
Barking demands, jumping, climbing all over you or rudely grabbing at food bring the fun to a temporary halt. Calmly pause the interaction and resume when your dog is behaving politely.
Your dog learns that good manners keep the good things coming.
First things first: teach your dog to love its name
One of the first things to teach a new puppy is that hearing its name means something good is about to happen. We want the dog to hear its name and immediately look towards us.
Start somewhere quiet, with a handful of tasty treats.
Say your dog’s name once, in a happy voice.
The moment your dog looks at you, say “Yes!” and give them a treat.
Repeat several times, keeping the exercise short and enjoyable.
Gradually practise in different environments, introducing distractions as your dog improves.
If your dog doesn’t look at you, don’t keep repeating its name. Make the exercise easier and try again.
Your dog’s name is an attention cue, not a recall command. It means “Look at me!” rather than “Come all the way back to me!”
Once your dog understands this, you can use their name to gain attention before giving a separate cue, such as “Come!” or “Here!”.
Your recall word is precious — protect it!
A reliable recall starts with teaching your dog that coming to you enthusiastically means wonderful things are about to happen.
That’s why CLEAR recommends using a separate recall word, such as “Come!” or “Here!”, rather than relying on your dog’s name.
Think how often a dog’s name gets taken in vain: “Fido, get out of the garden!” or “Fido, you naughty dog, you’ve pooed on the carpet!” The name can become associated with all sorts of emotions and experiences, not all of them pleasant.
Instead, we teach a special recall word and protect it with our lives!
Only use it when you’re reasonably confident your dog will come. Aim for a success rate of around 95 per cent, gradually increasing distractions as your dog becomes more reliable.
Every time you call your dog and they don’t come, you’re giving them another opportunity to learn that responding is optional. Avoid the magic method of repeatedly calling “Come, come, COME!” when your dog isn’t listening. If they’re too distracted, go and calmly collect them instead.
Make coming back Party Central! Reward generously, make a fuss of your dog and sometimes release them straight back to whatever they were enjoying. Coming when called should never routinely mean the end of the fun.
Protecting your special recall word gives you the best chance of achieving that dream dog who comes enthusiastically when called.
Freebie — the fun, easy game that can take your relationship to the next level
Freebie builds engagement by teaching your dog that repeatedly coming back to interact with you is enjoyable and rewarding.
Start somewhere quiet with several small, tasty treats.
Say “Freebie!” enthusiastically and toss a treat a short distance away.
Allow your dog to find and eat it.
When your dog turns and comes back towards you, say “Freebie!” and toss another treat.
Repeat while your dog is enjoying the game.
The important part isn’t chasing food. It’s your dog repeatedly choosing to return to you because that’s where more fun begins.
If your dog becomes pushy or demanding, pause until they’re behaving politely.
Freebie + Recall — bringing the fun back to you
Once your dog enjoys Freebie, introduce your recall cue.
Say “Freebie!” and toss a treat.
While your dog eats it, turn and walk approximately three steps away.
Give your recall cue, such as “Come!” or “Here!”, in a happy voice.
Mark with “Yes!” as your dog turns and commits to coming towards you. Reward generously when they arrive.
Gradually increase the distance as your dog improves.
Practise mini recalls on walks too. Say your dog’s name, wait for their attention, give the recall cue and walk backwards four or five steps, encouraging them towards you.
Keep your dog safely on lead while developing these skills.
Collar Grab — your recall’s safety net
If your dog is doing something they shouldn’t, don’t call them over and then do something unpleasant. Protect your recall by going and calmly collecting them instead.
Practise when your dog is relaxed and nothing is wrong.
Approach calmly from the side, rather than looming over them.
Slide your hand along their neck and gently take their collar.
Say “Yes!” and reward while calmly holding the collar.
Release and repeat until collar handling becomes comfortable and familiar.
This is particularly useful for puppies inclined to bite approaching hands. They learn that a hand near their face predicts something pleasant rather than being an invitation to grab.
Only call your dog when coming to you is going to be a happy, rewarding experience. Calling them and immediately taking hold of their collar may make them think twice about coming next time.
Practise Collar Grab separately, without calling your dog. If you need to remove them from a situation, go to them rather than risk damaging your recall.
Ditch the Bowl — teaching manners while having fun
Ditch the Bowl develops engagement and impulse control while making good use of your dog’s everyday food allowance.
Despite the name, you don’t have to practise at dinner time. You can play at any time of day, using a portion of your dog’s food or suitable training treats.
Part 1 — Food becomes a game
Sit beside a bench or table with your dog’s food in a bowl on your lap.
Say “Freebie!” and toss a piece of food a short distance away.
When your dog returns calmly, toss another.
If they jump, climb onto you or dive for the food, calmly place the bowl on the nearby bench, out of reach.
Wait for four feet on the floor and polite behaviour before resuming.
Your dog learns that good manners keep the game going, while pushiness makes the goodies temporarily disappear.
Part 2 — Waiting for the bowl
Practise initially when your dog isn’t particularly hungry.
Hold the bowl out of reach and begin lowering it slowly.
If your dog jumps or rushes forward, lift the bowl.
Wait for calm behaviour before lowering it again.
Continue until the bowl reaches the floor while your dog waits.
Give a release cue, such as “Okay!” or “Get it!”
Keep things relaxed. We’re teaching patience, not deliberately frustrating a hungry dog. If your dog is worried about people approaching or handling their food, seek individual advice rather than practising the bowl-lowering exercise.
Further reading
3. Enjoying walks together
Walking should be enjoyable for both you and your dog. Loose-lead walking isn’t competition heelwork. Dogs need opportunities to sniff and explore, but they also need to learn to walk beside us without pulling.
Don’t wait until your puppy is fully vaccinated and ready for neighbourhood walks before teaching loose-lead walking. By then, your puppy should already be happily following you around the backyard on lead, learning “Let’s go”, “This way” and “Wait”.
You can also practise in your front yard if other dogs don’t have access to it and your vet’s advice about local disease risks permits it.
Divide your walks into relaxed sniffing time and short periods of closer walking. Especially in the early stages, a few minutes of successful training is better than a long walk spent struggling with the lead.
Let’s go! Teaching a lovely loose-lead walk
Start somewhere quiet, with your dog beside you and a gentle U-shaped curve in the lead.
Say “Let’s go” and walk a couple of steps. Initially, you can use a treat just in front of your dog’s nose as a lure.
Say “Yes!” and reward when your dog walks correctly beside you.
As your dog learns, move your treat hand up and out of the way. Ask for “Let’s go”, mark the correct behaviour with “Yes!” and bring your hand down to deliver the reward.
Initially reward every one to three steps, gradually increasing the distance between rewards as your dog improves.
Release your dog with “Okay, go sniff” when it’s time for relaxed exploration.
Keep your lead hand relaxed. It’s difficult to teach loose-lead walking if you’re constantly tightening the lead yourself.
Five-minute walks that make a big difference
One of CLEAR’s favourite training tips is to take your dog on lots of little outings rather than relying on one big walk a day.
Take a five-minute break from watching television, pop on your dog’s lead and do a quick loop of your cul-de-sac. Start with a game of Freebie, then practise “Let’s go”, “This way”, “Wait” and a few changes of direction. Finish with another game of Freebie.
That’s five minutes of useful, enjoyable training!
The more often your dog goes out the front door for short, relaxed and rewarding experiences, the more normal those outings become. If the only time your dog leaves the house is for one big, exciting walk, the anticipation can build enormous excitement and stress.
The front yard is also a great training area, particularly for young puppies. Practise Freebie and Freebie + Recall on lead, making being outside the front door with you a familiar, rewarding experience.
There’s a safety benefit too. If your front door or gate is accidentally left open one day, a dog who has learnt that the front yard is a place to engage with you may be less inclined to bolt off in search of adventure.
Of course, this isn’t a substitute for secure gates, doors and supervision.
When your dog pulls — what to do instead
The 180-degree turn: Look over your shoulder and turn safely away, encouraging your dog to follow. When they catch up, reward several good steps beside you. Don’t immediately reward the turn itself, or you risk creating a pattern of pulling, turning and collecting a treat.
Front-clip harness: If your dog is wearing a suitable front-clip harness, gently redirect them sideways rather than pulling backwards. Pause, allow the lead to relax and then continue. Never jerk or drag your dog.
If your dog is repeatedly pulling towards something exciting, increase the distance from the distraction rather than continuing to struggle.
Six useful cues for happier walks
Let’s go: Start walking together.
This way: Change direction.
Wait: Pause until released.
Here/Come: Return to you.
Heel/Close: Walk beside you for a short period.
Okay, go sniff: Permission to relax and explore.
Mix in direction changes, short recalls, sits and opportunities to sniff. This keeps your dog engaged with you while still allowing them to enjoy their walk.
The right walking gear makes life easier
Good equipment can make walking easier, but it won’t teach loose-lead walking by itself.
CLEAR generally prefers a well-fitting Y-front harness that allows natural shoulder movement, preferably with front and back attachment points. Depending on the dog, other equipment may be appropriate.
Use the equipment recommended during your session, and ask Caroline if you’re unsure about fit or handling.
Further reading
4. Teaching your dog to be calm
Wouldn’t it be nice to have a dog who comes inside calmly, greets family members politely and settles at your feet while you watch television?
These are perfectly reasonable goals. Dogs don’t have to spend their lives outside because they’re too boisterous to live comfortably with the family.
Calmness is a skill we can teach. The following exercises help dogs learn that relaxing and doing nothing can be rewarding too.
Learning to switch off — the settle exercise
This simple routine, practised three times a day for approximately three weeks, can make a remarkable difference to your dog’s behaviour.
The aim is to teach your dog to settle quietly whenever you sit down to relax.
Get organised. You’ll need a lead, comfortable collar or harness, around 50 small treats and something quiet for yourself to do, such as reading or watching television. A mat is optional. Keep the treats out of sight, somewhere you can reach them without placing them in front of your dog’s face.
Sit down together. Bring your dog inside on lead and go straight to your chair. Place your foot gently on the lead, leaving enough slack for your dog to lie down comfortably but not wander around or jump all over you. The lead should remain comfortable, without pressure on your dog’s neck.
Be boring! Relax and ignore ordinary demands for attention, including nudging, whining or jumping. Don’t scold, talk to or continually make eye contact with your dog.
Reward the behaviour you want. When your dog lies down, quietly say “Yes!” and place a treat between their front paws.
Keep rewarding calmness. Reward again at unpredictable intervals while your dog remains settled. Deliver the treats quietly and keep the rest hidden. After approximately five minutes, move to another spot in the room and repeat.
Finish calmly. Say “All done” in a quiet voice and release your dog.
Keep the exercise relaxed and low-key. We want your dog learning to switch off, not staring at treats and waiting for the next one.
Avoid starting when your puppy is already in full ballistic-missile mode. Practise when they’re reasonably receptive, gradually building their ability to settle in more challenging circumstances. If your dog becomes genuinely distressed rather than simply restless, make the exercise easier.
Magnetise the mat — make it your dog’s favourite place
Place training teaches your dog that a particular mat or bed is a wonderful place to be. By repeatedly rewarding them for going onto it, we can effectively “magnetise” the mat so your dog actively wants to return there.
Place the mat on the floor and reward your dog for showing interest in it.
Encourage them onto the mat, using a lure initially if necessary. Say “Yes!” and reward when all four paws are on it.
Gradually encourage your dog to lie down on the mat, rewarding generously when they do.
Once your dog is happily going onto the mat, introduce a cue such as “Place” or “On your mat”.
Gradually build the time your dog remains there, rewarding calm behaviour at varying intervals.
Use a release cue such as “Okay” or “All done” to let your dog know the exercise has finished.
Keep sessions short and enjoyable. As your dog improves, gradually introduce distractions and practise in different parts of the house.
A well-trained mat can be particularly useful when you’re cooking, eating dinner or welcoming visitors. It’s a familiar place where your dog has learnt that relaxing brings good things.
Place training can also be combined with the foot-on-lead settle exercise. Put the mat beside your chair, encourage your dog to lie on it and quietly reward relaxation.
But don’t always use a mat. Sometimes you’ll be at a café, visiting friends or sitting on a park bench without one. Your dog should gradually learn to settle wherever you are, not only when their special mat appears.
Chewing, chilling and quiet entertainment
Chewing and working on appropriate food toys can help dogs relax and occupy themselves without constantly seeking your attention.
Stuffed rubber Kongs, suitable puzzle feeders and other safe food-carrier toys are useful options. Rotate them to maintain interest.
Choose appropriately sized toys and supervise where necessary. A quiet chewing session can be a good alternative to another exciting game when your dog is becoming overtired.
Catch your dog being calm!
Look for opportunities to reward behaviour you want. Your dog lying quietly at your feet, settling on their mat or relaxing while you’re busy are all worth reinforcing.
You don’t need to turn these moments into an exciting training session. Quiet praise and a small treat can be enough.
A happy crate and learning to be alone
A crate can provide a comfortable resting place, particularly for puppies, and can also be useful during recovery from injury.
Introduce it gradually with treats, food toys and enjoyable experiences. Allow your dog to explore voluntarily and build up short periods of rest. Never use the crate as punishment.
It’s also important for puppies to learn that they can relax without constant entertainment or attention. Begin with short, comfortable periods of independent rest and gradually increase them as your puppy becomes confident.
If your dog becomes distressed when left alone, don’t force longer absences. Seek individual advice.
Further reading
5. Puppy essentials: getting off to a good start
Puppies can be wonderful, exhausting and occasionally infuriating! The early weeks are about helping your puppy feel secure, establishing good habits and preventing problems before they develop.
Welcome home, puppy — but hold the party!
Bringing home a new puppy is exciting, but remember that your puppy has just left everything familiar behind: its mother, littermates, home and routine.
Resist the temptation to treat your new arrival like a Christmas present that everyone wants to play with and show off. This isn’t the time for a procession of visitors, constant cuddling or exciting outings.
Give your puppy a few quiet days to settle in, explore its new surroundings and get to know the family. Establish a predictable routine for meals, toileting, play and sleep, and provide a comfortable, safe place where it can rest undisturbed.
Keep early experiences positive and low-key. There’s plenty of time for visitors and adventures once your puppy feels secure. You can begin gentle, appropriate socialisation without overwhelming your new arrival.
Your backyard: a puppy paradise or a hidden hazard?
Before bringing your puppy home, get down to puppy level and inspect your garden. Puppies investigate with their mouths, and things you’ve never noticed may suddenly become irresistible.
Check fencing and gates for gaps, and look for dangerous objects, loose stones, sharp tools, rubbish, garden chemicals and anything else your puppy might swallow or chew.
Pay particular attention to poisonous plants. Common garden favourites can be toxic to dogs, and some can cause serious illness or even death. Don’t assume a plant is safe simply because an older dog has lived alongside it without problems.
You have three main options: remove dangerous plants, securely fence them off, or create a smaller puppy-safe area. Make sure your puppy cannot reach poisonous foliage through the fencing.
Provide shade, fresh water and a comfortable resting area. A secure space close to the back door is often particularly useful while your puppy is learning its routine.
Help! My puppy thinks I’m a chew toy
Puppies explore the world with their mouths, and biting is a normal part of development. However, that doesn’t mean we should allow them to treat people as pincushions.
Biting often gets worse when puppies are tired, frustrated or overexcited. Prevention is generally more effective than waiting until they’ve turned into little ballistic missiles.
Be proactive, not reactive. Plan short, enjoyable play sessions before your puppy becomes overexcited. Have appropriate toys and chews readily available.
Teach bite inhibition. If your puppy bites too hard, calmly interrupt the interaction. You can say “Too hard”, briefly stop playing and resume when they’re calmer. Avoid dramatic squealing or reactions that might excite them further.
Watch the excitement level. Tug can be a wonderful game, particularly with a long toy that keeps teeth away from hands. But don’t keep playing until your puppy loses control.
Don’t accidentally reward biting. Immediately producing an exciting toy every time your puppy bites can create a behaviour chain: bite the human and fabulous entertainment begins!
Remember the importance of rest. An overtired puppy may need a quiet chew and some downtime rather than another exciting game.
As your puppy matures, gradually expect gentler behaviour until they understand that human skin isn’t for biting.
Toilet training — getting the timing right
Successful toilet training comes down to supervision, consistency, good timing and rewarding the right behaviour.
Go out frequently. Take your puppy to their toilet area after waking, eating, drinking and playing, as well as at regular intervals throughout the day.
Give them time. Stay nearby and allow a few quiet minutes to sniff and toilet before starting games.
Introduce a toilet cue. As your puppy begins toileting, quietly say your chosen word, such as “Toilet”.
Reward immediately. Once they’ve finished, say “Yes!” and give them a tasty treat. Don’t wait until you’ve gone back inside.
Supervise indoors. If you can’t supervise your puppy, use a suitable safe area to prevent accidents. Clean up mistakes thoroughly without scolding.
Don’t assume that a puppy who’s been outside for hours has toileted. They may have been sleeping and suddenly need to go when they come indoors.
Where possible, encourage toileting on the surface you ultimately want your dog to use. Pee pads can sometimes create a preference for soft, absorbent surfaces that makes outdoor training more difficult.
If your puppy suddenly starts having frequent accidents or appears uncomfortable toileting, consult your vet.
Socialisation — confidence, not chaos
The early socialisation period, particularly the first 12–16 weeks, is an important opportunity to introduce puppies to the world.
But good socialisation isn’t about meeting as many dogs and people as possible. It’s about creating positive experiences that build confidence.
Introduce new sights, sounds, surfaces, people and appropriate dogs gradually. Allow your puppy to observe from a comfortable distance and reward curiosity and calm behaviour.
Never force a frightened puppy to interact. If they’re worried, increase the distance and make the experience easier.
A puppy who can calmly watch another dog without needing to rush over and say hello is learning a very valuable skill.
Ask your vet about safe outings before vaccinations are complete, taking local disease risks into account. Don’t automatically leave all socialisation until vaccinations are finished.
Further reading
More help from CLEAR
These notes are just the beginning! You’ll find many more practical training articles at CLEARdogtraining.com, covering everything from puppy problems and loose-lead walking to reactivity, recall and living happily with your dog.
And if there’s a training topic you’d love to see covered that isn’t already there, drop Caroline a line. Many of the articles have grown out of questions from clients, and suggestions are always welcome.
Until we meet again, have fun with your dog and enjoy your training!
Need more help? Contact Caroline
And remember, if you’d like more help after your Foundation Package — whether it’s taking your training to the next level or working on a particular behavioural issue — affordable follow-up sessions are available with Caroline for just $80 an hour at Green Park in Wynnum, or further afield by arrangement.
Caroline Strainig — CLEAR Dog Training
Phone / WhatsApp: 0468 990 050
Email: caroline@cleardogtraining.com
Website: CLEARdogtraining.com
